- 0:00Empty the machine and drain the water
- 0:12Transport bolts: lock the drum
- 0:24Carry and transport upright
- 0:36Connect in the new home
- 0:48Test cycle and dishwasher
We move washing machines in the Helsinki region every week, and the same three mistakes keep coming back: the machine is carried with water still inside, the drum is left unlocked, and in the new home the hoses are tightened on the "that should hold" principle. Each of them costs something — a bearing, a parquet floor or, at worst, the downstairs neighbour's ceiling. Here are the steps in the order they are done in the video.
01Empty the machine and drain the water
Start by running a short empty programme or just a spin so the drum is dry. Then close the shut-off valve — the tap is on the wall behind the machine or inside the sink cabinet — and unscrew the inlet hose from the tap. Keep a shallow dish and a towel ready, because there is always water in the hose. Detach the drain hose from the waste connection or the sink trap as well.
Next, the lint filter. It sits behind the small flap at the bottom of the front panel, and many machines have a little emergency drain hose next to it. Open the filter over the dish — the pump housing can hold half a litre. Clean the filter while you are at it, tilt the machine slightly forward to get the last of the water out, and pull the detergent drawer out to dry. Finally, tape the hoses and the power cord to the side of the machine so they do not get trapped between the floor and the wall of the van.
Why so thorough? Residual water runs onto the van floor and other people's belongings during transport, and in winter it freezes inside the pump. A dry machine is also lighter to carry.
02Transport bolts — why the drum must be locked
The drum of a washing machine is not fixed to the casing: it hangs on springs and shock absorbers so it can swing during the spin cycle. In transport, that freedom is the problem. On every bump the drum bangs against the casing, and the suspension or the bearing can get bent — damage you cannot see from the outside but will hear in the first spin. The manufacturer's warranty does not cover transport damage.
That is why the drum is locked with transport bolts. There are usually three or four of them, and they screw into holes in the back panel that were covered with plastic caps after installation. The bolts came with the machine when it was new, and a good installer left them in a bag behind the machine or in the detergent drawer. Screw them in before the machine is moved a single centimetre — even when the journey is only to the building next door.
And remember the reverse order in the new home: bolts out before the first wash. With the drum locked, the machine hammers itself to pieces within minutes of the first spin.
A model-specific transport bolt kit is available from the manufacturer's spare parts service or an appliance retailer using the number on the rating plate — order it a week before the move. Without bolts the machine travels upright only, strapped tightly against the van wall and without bouncing; the risk remains, and even a short trip can damage the suspension.
03Carrying and transport upright
A washing machine weighs 60–90 kilos, and the weight sits unevenly at the bottom where the concrete counterweight is. You need two carriers, and the grip is taken from the base — not from the door, the detergent drawer or the lid, which come off in your hand. On stairs the best tool is a hand truck, tilting the machine only as much as the movement requires, and carrying straps where the truck does not fit.
In the van the machine stands upright, drum locked, strapped against the wall. Nothing is loaded on top of it. Do not lay it on its side or back: water from the detergent drawer and the pump runs onto the electronics, and the drum hangs on the bearing from the wrong direction. If the machine has ended up on its side for some reason, let it stand upright for a couple of hours before use. Moving blankets protect both the sides of the machine and the parquet, and scratches across the floor of the old home are the most common trace a washing machine leaves — which is why the machine is lifted, never dragged.
04Connecting in the new home
First the spot: about a centimetre of clearance to walls and cabinets, an earthed socket without an extension lead, and a tap with a shut-off valve. Then the inlet hose to the tap: washer in place, tightened by hand plus a quarter turn — not forced with a tool, because an over-tightened connector leaks just as surely as a loose one. The hose must not be kinked or squeezed by a cabinet.
The drain hose goes into the washing machine connection of the waste pipe or the branch of the sink trap. Height matters: the top of the hose loop should typically be 60–100 cm above the floor, following the manufacturer's instructions, otherwise the machine siphons itself empty mid-programme or does not drain at all. Push the end only a few centimetres into the waste pipe, not all the way down.
Next, level the machine: turn the adjustable feet until a spirit level reads level in both directions, then tighten the lock nuts. A machine that is not level walks during the spin and hammers the wall. Now remove the transport bolts and fit the plastic caps into the holes. Finally, the test cycle: a short programme without laundry, during which you check the joints with a torch, feel the hoses and the floor under the machine, and listen to the spin. The first time, it is worth staying next to the machine for the whole programme.
Many Finnish housing companies (taloyhtiö) want to be notified of an appliance water connection, and some require that fixed water connections are made by a qualified installer — ask the property manager before the move. A drip tray under the machine and a leak guard on the tap cost a few tens of euros and catch a seeping leak before the parquet does. Keep the receipt and the record of the connection work.
05Dishwasher — what is different
A dishwasher has no drum and no transport bolts, so step two is skipped. In other respects it is more demanding: the machine is connected to both the water line and the drain, often inside a cabinet, and a leak stays hidden underneath it. Empty it by running a programme to the end, disconnect the hoses the same way as on a washing machine and transport it upright — tilted, water runs out of the pump. In the new home the drain hose gets a high loop under the worktop so the drain cannot siphon the machine empty, and a drip tray under the machine is close to mandatory. If the machine is hard-wired to the mains instead of a plug, the electrical work belongs to an electrician. The details are on their own page: plumber in Helsinki.
Who does what: the plumber during your move
The movers handle steps 1–3: draining, fitting the bolts, carrying and transport. The connection in the new home is done by our team's licensed plumber (putkimies), who connects the machine, checks every joint and caps the water points when a machine leaves with the moving load and nothing replaces it. The work is documented — you have proof of a professional installation for your housing company and your insurer.
| Job | Price |
|---|---|
| Washing machine installation & connection | from €75 |
| Dishwasher installation & connection | from €120 |
| Dishwasher disconnection | from €45 |
Prices are starting prices — the exact price is confirmed in your quote before the work. Extra connectors and hoses are charged separately. No plumbing work is included free with a move — all of it is priced on its own, and you see the price of every job as its own line in your quote before ordering. During the move, the plumber disconnects your machines at the old home and connects them at the new one within the same move; a separate visit is also possible anywhere in the capital region, with confirmation within the hour. The labour share is itemised on your receipt for the Finnish household tax credit (kotitalousvähennys).
Frequently asked questions
Can a washing machine be transported lying down?
Preferably not. On its side, water from the detergent drawer and the pump runs onto the electronics, and the drum loads the bearing from the wrong direction. If the machine will not fit in the vehicle upright, lock the drum with the transport bolts, lay it on the side the manufacturer specifies and let it stand upright for a couple of hours before use.
What if the transport bolts are lost?
Order a model-specific kit from the manufacturer's spare parts service or an appliance retailer using the rating plate number — ideally a week before the move. Without bolts the machine is transported upright, strapped tightly and without bouncing, but the risk of suspension damage remains.
Does home insurance cover a washing machine leak?
Home insurance in Finland generally covers sudden and unforeseen leak damage, but the terms include exclusions and an excess. A connection made carelessly or against the instructions can reduce the payout or rule it out, and damage to the building's structures may fall on the resident. Check your policy terms before the move and keep the receipt for a professional connection — we do not give insurance advice.
Machines off and on with the same move?
Tell us in your quote request which appliances are moving with you. The plumber connects them in the new home on the same day, and the price shows as its own line before you order.